In Focus: Burgundy, Part Deux

In the first of our two-part article on the magic of Burgundy, or Bourgogne as the locals say, we covered the rustic reds and whites of the Côte Chalonnaise, the festive reds of Beaujolais, the inexpensive Chardonnays from the Mâconnais and the golden nectars of Chablis. Join us now as we get to the really good stuff: The world class Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of the Côte d’Or.

Côte d’Or

The Côte d’Or, or Golden Slope, is a collection of some of the greatest vineyards in the world. A ridge of limestone marl that started in England runs all the way down through Burgundy. It is on this ridge, known as the Kimmeridgian, that the best vineyards lie. The soil varies from hill to hill, but all contain at least some of this limestone clay which is heavy with nutrients from the fossils of shellfish from eons ago. The best vineyards face east to catch the morning sun. This is crucial as Burgundy lies very far north in the wine growing world. The Côte d’Or is split into two areas: The Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits.

Côte de Beaune

The Côte de Beaune, in the southern half of the Côte d’Or, is an area noted for centuries for its pleasant reds and stunning whites. We shall start in the southern end and head north. Commune and village names appear in bold.

Vintages from the Côte de Beaune to look for are: 2002, 2000, 1999, 1996, 1995 and 1990. Head for the lovely wines from Verget, Leflaive, Laboure-Roi and Domaine Bonneau du Martray.

Santenay

A smaller region known for light and approachable Pinot Noir. Look to the 1er crus of Les Graviérs and La Comme.

Chassagne-Montrachet

This is the beginning of the home of the wonderful and expensive Chardonnays that are renowned throughout the world. Chassagnes are floral, golden and plush. There are many 1er crus to look for. The northern end shares with Puligny-Montrachet the Grand Crus of Le Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues and Les Criots. These are the epitomes of Chardonnay, towering over any competition from France, Italy or the new world. They are also the most expensive.

Puligny-Montrachet

Along with the Grand Crus that Puligny shares with Chassagne there are many fine 1er crus to be had such as Les Pucelles and Les Combettes. The wines from these regions listed by their village name (i.e., Puligny-Montrachet) can also be wonderful at one third the cost of their more esteemed siblings.

St-Aubin, St-Romain, Auxey Duresses and Monthelie

If ever there were bargains in the Côte d’Or these would be it. These small communes may be missing just a touch in the quality category, but they are missing a lot in the price category. Because they do not have the highest elevation or the most ideal location, they are often overlooked.

Meursault

Another area of incredible Chardonnay, Meursaults drift away from the power of the Montrachets to form wines of beauty, finesse and liveliness. If gold melted into your glass of wine, this is what it would look and taste like. All Meursaults are of a high quality, but look for the 1er cru of Les Charmes for something special.

Volnay

These may be the most beautiful and feminine expressions of Pinot Noir in the world. Perfumed, floral and light on their feet, Volnays can be a lovely blend of velvet and electricity. There are numerous premier crus to choose from.

Pommard

Despite being the next door neighbor of Volnay wines from these two communes could not be any more different. Where Volnay brings elegance and finesse Pommard counters with a rustic display of brute strength. Dark, heavy, tannic and brooding, Pommards require 10 to 15 years of bottle age to tame their power. When maturity is reached, they can be a joy to behold. Look for the 1er crus of Rugiens and Epenots.

Corton and Aloxe-Corton

The isolated hill of Corton has the distinction of being the only place in Burgundy to boast a Grand Cru for both red and white wines. Chardonnay from Corton-Charlemagne can be absolutely massive in both flavor and structure. Pinot Noir is labeled simply as Corton. The commune of Aloxe-Corton produces some very nice reds that have the perfume and fruit of a Volnay but with more intensity and backbone. Savigny-les-Beaune is another appellation to seek out for lovely Pinot Noir.

Côte de Nuits

We have ventured into the land of red wine. The Côte de Nuits produces wonderful Pinot Noir and very little else. The Pinots from this region are big, long lived and some of the best wine in the world.

Vintages to look for from the Côte de Nuits are: 2002, 2001, 1999, 1996, 1995, 1993 and 1990. Wonderful wines are available from Bruno Clair, Bouchard, Meo Camuzet. If you can find it (and afford it) try the wines of Domaines Leroy and Romanee-Conti.

Nuits-St-George

Known for wines of strength and character, the Nuits-St-George has a high overall level of quality. The wines aren’t cheap but can be a good value. Try the 1er crus of Les St-Georges and Vaucrains.

Vosne-Romanée

Some of the best (and most expensive) Pinot Noirs in the world. La Tâche, Romanée-Conti, the list of Grand Crus goes on... There is a level of ripeness in the Pinot here that is impossible to reach anywhere else. Prices are high, but as the old adage goes: “There are no common wines in Vosne.”

Echézeaux

A big Grand Cru. Grands Echézeaux can be a better choice. Look for Flagey-Echézeaux for (relative) bargains.

Clos de Vougeot

A large, walled vineyard. Walled vineyards usually hint of monastic origins.

Chambolle-Musigny

An area noted for Burgundies, even in Burgundy. The beauty of the Grand Cru of Musigny is that the wine disguises its strength with finesse and delicacy. Most Chambolles will deliver for 10 to 15 years or more, and the 1er crus of Les Charmes and Les Amoureuses are particularly good.

Morey-St-Denis

This small appellation is blessed with five Grand Crus and 20 1er crus. Quality is high in all.

Gevrey-Chambertin

The larger Gevrey is known for being the place for good Burgundy. The commune has a large amount of great vineyards, and the wines form here are powerful, age worthy and unforgettable. Think that a California Cabernet makes big wines? Try a high quality Gevrey-Chambertin. You may want to rethink your opinion.

Fixin and Marsannay

As we get closer to Dijon the wines lose a little depth and color, but there are still nice wines to be had. Prices here are very reasonable.

The wines of Burgundy can be incredible. They can also be incredibly expensive. The middle ground can be just as unstable as the slopes of scree and limestone that dot the region. It can be difficult to find a good Pinot Noir or Chardonnay if you know nothing about Burgundy, so just a little bit of research is important. Stick with some of the well-known producers such as Verget, Domaine Bruno Clair, Louis Latour and Joseph Drouhin for safe bets. These choices may miss on some of the harmony of the small producer, but they may also miss on some of the funk of the small producer. One last thing to remember: All of this may seem like a touch too much work for a bottle of wine, but like any thing of great beauty it will be worth it in the end.

Below is a selection of wines from the Côte d’Or that have been reviewed by the Winegeeks.com staff.

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