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Up and Coming Wine RegionsBy E. S. Brown on 9.26.2005 |
Unless you are Joe Wineexpert you have probably found yourself stumbling into an uncharted section in your favorite wine store. The names became strange and unfamiliar, the labels unrecognizable. At some point it may feel as if you have ventured down the dark and scary path that we urge our favorite movie character not to take. You were just strolling through the Burgundies, what happened?
Wine has gone global. Gone are the days when we could rely on a few well-known names such as Bordeaux, Chianti and Napa. Today we are presented with a myriad of wines from just as many regions. The unprecedented popularity of wine in the American market has presented us with an unprecedented amount of wine from the four corners of the globe. The shelves of the local store groan under the weight of wines that were once rarities but today are commonplace, and it is up to the consumer to sort it all out.
But you are not alone. Just as your local Wine Dude has a few helpful hints, so do we. The names may be unfamiliar (Crios de Susana Balbo), the grapes may be hard to pronounce (Kékfrankos), and the countries may be hard to find on a map (Lebanon, seriously!) but the wines are delicious just the same. Let's start with a few of the more well known areas.
Europe
Just because you have heard this song before doesn’t mean there aren’t new verses. The old world continues to pump out new wines from new regions that rival the oldies that we know and love. The south of France is hot both literally and figuratively, with the southern Rhône, Provence and the Languedoc leading the way. Same with the bottom half of Italy, which may have thousands of years of winemaking tradition, but only a few years worth of international interest. Keep an eye out for the velvety reds of Apulia and Sicily. The great wines of Germany continue to outshine their price, and with several good vintages in a row if one can’t find a good German Riesling, one shouldn’t blame Germany. But no country across the pond has seen as much progress as Spain.
Sure, you may know Rioja and Ribera del Duero, but what about the juicy Monastrell-based reds from Yecla in the south? Or the beefy and bold wines of Toro, made from the local clone of Tempranillo called Tinto de Toro? Manchuela, Navarra, Valencia, Rias Biaxas... the list of hot new areas goes on and on. These wines are not to be missed, as they are packed full of both quality and value, a commodity that attracts wine lovers like football fans to a tailgate party.
Another country to keep an eye out for is Hungary. It’s hard to call these new wine growing regions, as the tradition of great wine in Hungary dates back a thousand years, so let’s say new to the American market. Villanyi in the south is probably the most developed and highly regarded at this point. The warm, dry climate and volcanic soils provide an excellent home for Bordeaux varietals. To the east in Szekszárd we find the traditional varietals of Kadarka and Kékfrankos, the culprits in producing the spicy and rich reds found here. Further north in Eger we find a mix of both old and new, the traditional varietals, and the Bordeaux grapes that seem to have taken to the silt and loam soils here. The Hungarian wine industry has emerged from under the shadow of communism to continue the great tradition of the Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), and though there is still a ways to go, the progress is delicious.
The wines of Portugal are as hot as the sun-baked landscape. Even the Duoro, famous for centuries for its Port houses is now shipping excellent still reds across the globe. The combination of 100°F days, schist and slate soils, and 60° slopes make for treacherous grape growing but tasty results. Further to the south in Barrida and Dão excellent reds from the local Baga varietal are making a name for themselves. The mix of tannins, acids and elegance found in these wines has led some to compare them to the great Nebbiolos of Piedmont.
There are plenty of other regions to seek out in Europe, including the great whites of Austria, the long traditions and ancient wines of Greece, even wines from the former Soviet Republic are beginning to appear stateside. You name it, and it’s out there.
South America
Chile and Argentina may be familiar to you, but what about names like Maipo, Colchagua and Aconcagua? Chile is making great strides in the warm valleys nestled in between the Andes and the Pacific. The clay soils of Colchagua in the central valley region of Rapel are perfect for growing Merlot and Carmenere, two Bordeaux varietals that made their way here in the 1800s. To the north is the hot Maipo Valley where excellent Cabernet Sauvignon can be found on the cheap. Further up the coast the cool Casablanca Valley is the Chilean home for white wine. Look for the tasty Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay produced here.
Argentina is also on the fast track to wine greatness. Malbec has gone from Bordeaux also ran to heavyweight contender as it clings to the sandy soils high up in the foothills of the Andes. Far to the north the regions of La Rioja and Cafayate produce excellent white wines from Torrontes, Argentina’s answer to Chardonnay. These whites can have the fragrance of Pinot Grigio, the cream of Chardonnay and the acidity of Sauvignon Blanc, all at once. Further to the south the great region of Mendoza is a red wine-producing machine, with light and lively wines from the Italian transplant Bonarda and rich and sumptuous versions from Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.
South Africa
The end of apartheid has been a boom to the wine industry of South Africa. The vines here have flourished for centuries, but it is only recently that the treasures here have come to light on an international scale. The mild Mediterranean climate of Stellenbosch is perfect for bold and sumptuous whites made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and the popular Chenin Blanc, known locally as Steen.
To the north the hot central region of Paarl has a heavier soil and produces heavier wines, most notably reds. Bordeaux varietals, the local specialty Pinotage, and recently Syrah have been making their way to the wine shops of the U.S. The Syrah and Cabernets can be both powerful and age worthy, a combination sure to please.
A word on Pinotage: This hybrid varietal is found almost exclusively in South Africa and once dominated the red wine landscape. It has a very distinct aroma that some liken to leather, truffles and earth, while others compare it to animal sweat or manure. Love it or hate it, it is what it is.
New Zealand
OK, so everyone knows about Cloudy Bay and Kim Crawford, but there is much more to Kiwi wine than Sauvignon Blanc, though that is what has brought fame. The South Island region of Marlborough juts out into the ocean creating a land that has lots of sun, wind and very little rain. Perfect for growing cool-weather grapes. In addition to the Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and some tasty little Gewürztraminers are springing up at the local store. Otago further to the south has turned into a perfect place for Pinot Noir. It may not be cheap, but it sure is good.
The North Island holds Hawke’s Bay and Martinborough, two regions known for their white wines. The Sauvignon Blanc here is a little more ripe and round, the Chardonnays a little more viscous and rich. Not necessarily better, just different.
North America
Where would be if we didn’t look to our own backyard for new and exciting wines? The Great Lakes provide an excellent natural backdrop for growing grapes, and while the winters may be harsh and the land a touch too fertile, careful clone selection and the use of hybrid vines have started a wine industry where once there was nothing but Pink Catawba. All around Lake Erie there are wineries to be had, with many fine white wines and some excellent ice and dessert-wine versions as well. Ontario, Michigan, Pennsylvania and Ohio have all seen dramatic increases in wine production.
But New York is king in this part of the wine growing world. The Finger Lakes region in the northwestern part of the state is now home to over 150 wineries, all producing different styles that range from light, white and dry, to heavy, rich and red, to decadently sweet and golden in color. Even Long Island is getting into the mix, with two different areas, the Hamptons AVA and the North Folk AVA each producing distinct and delectable delights.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, as your attention span and my Carpal Tunnel won’t allow for that much info. There are new regions that lay just off the beaten path all over the world that are just waiting to be explored. Who would think that England produces tasty dry white wines, or that one of the best red wines in the world would hail from the tiny little Château Musar located in Lebanon? Never mind the fact that Lebanon (Canaan, more specifically) has been producing wines for 6 millennia. Since we haven’t heard of it here in the states it hasn’t existed, right?
The truth is that many of these regions have been cranking out the good stuff for centuries; it has just taken that long for us to notice. Shame on us, but I know one way we can make up for lost time -- Be sure to take that left at Albuquerque and head down the dark and scary path, there may be a fine bottle of wine waiting for you at the end.
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