Wine Reviews By esbrown

esbrown reviewed Fattori Recioto di Soave Motto Piane 2008
Production of this style of wine dates back to the 5th century and the unctuous goodness stems from the harvest of very ripe grapes and drying said grapes on straw mats until well into the following year. The result is a wine that offers balanced acidity, a pleasing mouth feel and just enough sweetness to satisfy any post dinner cravings.

The Fattori Recioto begins with a hue that is closer to gold and polished bronze than any white wine around. The amber nectar almost seems to have been made to be put in a glass and ponder holiday lights through. Aromas of baked apricots, toffee and pecan pie waft from the glass. Once on the palate there is a huge rush of flavorful emotion, and as a tear is shed (well, almost!) a mix of orange marmalade, roasted hazelnuts, dutch apple pie and a splash of lemon zest spring forth across the palate. The finish is long and lush and doesn’t seem to want to leave.
December 2, 2010

esbrown reviewed Caldwell Vineyards Napa Valley Rocket Science 2007
The name is a play on words that making wine isn’t rocket science, but this lush and long creation is surprisingly complex given its handle. A mix of estate-grown Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot from John Caldwell’s vineyard to the east of the city of Napa, the Rocket Science begins with a deep nose filled with black cherries and raspberries mixed with earthy notes of wood smoke, sweet spices and a hint of cedar. The palate is gobby and gooey and filled with black fruits and chocolate mixed with spicy notes, but then a delicate balance of acidity and tannins comes weaving its way into the mix to keep the wine from feeling heavy or cloying. The finish goes on and on December 2, 2010

esbrown reviewed Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Extra-Brut Tradition NV
Unlike many of the more well-known name brands in Champagne the Larmandier-Bernier is made by a small family that harvests, ferments, ferments again and bottles their wine. No factories or production in gigantic proportions here. Only really good fruit farmed organically and biodynamically from old vines in really good soils. Extra-Brut means that less sugar was added in the dosage as the Larmandiers believe that ripe fruit should provide all the sweetness a Champagne really needs.

The initial aromas range from orange peel to chamomile to white lilies and back to a little zesty citrus note. The entry of this wine is intense and fragrant, with lovely tangerine, quince, anise and thyme elements mixed with golden delicious apples and a broad feel. The finish begins with a twang of bright acidity and minerality but proceeds to flesh out across the palate and develop into a harmonious and lovely balance. December 2, 2010

esbrown reviewed Domaine la Guintrandy Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan Cuvee Louise-Amelie 2006
From a selection of old vines grown from rocky soils in the warmest parcel on the estate, the Louise-Amelie is exactly what is right in the world of Old World wines. The nose starts with candied red fruits and violet perfume but then a sinister, smoky, camphor note comes creeping in, thus hinting at the 20% or so Syrah mixed in with the Grenache. The palate is a luch and lovely blend of the fruit, weight and concentration that has become so common in the Rhone mixed with the spice, complexity, earth and minerality that used to be so common in the Rhone. Layered, intense, balanced, pure and long, this is a lovely bottle of wine and further proof that just because it says Chateauneuf doesn't mean it is the true expression of the Rhone anymore. This is what Rhone wines should aspire to be. November 1, 2010

esbrown reviewed Melville Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Inox 2009
The 2009 Melville Inox Chardonnay is a wine of immense minerals, long and ripe fruit notes and bracing, vibrant acidity. Unoaked and prevented from going through malolactic fermentation, the Melville Inox differs from many un-oaked Chards in that it is sourced from the ripest Chardonnay grapes on the estate instead of the least ripe. The result is a wine of precision and focus that offers an underlying current of fruit and weight that is hard to fathom at first, but that with each moment in the glass and trip across the palate seems to become more profound and expressive. Imagine if the Grand Crus of Chablis were airlifted to Santa Barbara and that just begins to give glimpses of the dynamic nature of this wine. November 1, 2010

esbrown reviewed Raventos i Blanc Brut Cava Reserva L'Hereu 2007
Want a bottle of Champagne but don't want the high price tag? This is the wine for you. Further proof that it is not always so much about the where or the when, but more the who, the how and the why, the Raventos L'Hereu was given every possible opportunity to become a wine on par with the greats of Champagne. Chalky soils, old vines, organic and BioD, a rest on the lees 2x as long as Veuve and a family with 500 years of winemaking know how- every element is in place for this wine to over deliver. And it does not disappoint. Aromas of fresh flowers, Granny Smith apples and biscotti tease the senses before a rich, robust and profound mix of flavors comes invading the palate. Call it the EF Hutton wine, because your taste buds are forced to listen. Full fruits of caramelized apples, fresh peaches and a toasty brioche note offer weight and richness that spreads across all four corners of the tongue. And just as the wine seems to be too intense a wave of silky bubbles begins to tickle, and then a wave of minerals begins to sharpen the focus, and finally a wave of fresh acidity brings everything back into phase with linear precision. This is a delicious and impeccably-made wine, and a total steal at this price. November 1, 2010

esbrown reviewed Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley 2007
The wines of John Kongsgaard are hard to define, hard to explain and sometimes hard to describe in that they boggle the mind with their insane and intense depth and richness yet tickle the palate with just enough balance to win over fans of all styles of vino. The 2007 vintage is further proof that in a year where only average wines are made, John's are exceptional, but in a year where excellent wines are made across the board, the Kongsgaard wines are simply other worldly. The nose is intense and broad with elements that run from citrus to peach and orange blossom. Once in the mouth the wine transforms into this golden blanket of Chardonnay flavors, immediately thrilling the senses with gobs of fleshy fruit, overt minerality and a certain honeyed character not unlike a top-rate Meursault. The finish starts with ample fruit, cream and oak, and then fades into a lush mineral and acidity laden crispness, and then slides back again towards a cream and golden raisin feel that seems to last for an eternity. This is California Chardonnay at its finest. September 7, 2010

esbrown reviewed Martinelli Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Moonshine Ranch Vineyard 2007
The wines of Helen Turley are certainly not without controversy, as her extroverted and robust style has all but revolutionized winemaking in CA. I suspect other winemakers would like to fight her in a dark alley for what she has done to wine if given the chance. For this wine however, there can be no denying the rich purple fruit and black cherries that come bursting out of the glass. Chewy, rich, silky smooth and full-throttle, this wine offers gobs of everything: fruit, spice, complexity, depth, etc, etc, etc. You name it- it's in there. Yet the wine is not without a certain graceful charm, as if watching a 200 pound dancer flit through a serious of jumps and spins that you were sure would cause the stage to come crashing down only to be shocked at how the suave, sophisticated and complex dance maneuvers are completed flawlessly over and over again. There are many wine lovers in the world who would KILL for this bottle of wine, and while I readily admit a transparent bottle of Volnay is more my speed, I will also readily admit I really liked this wine and that it is clearly a world-class Pinot. September 7, 2010

esbrown reviewed Donnhoff Riesling Nahe Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese 2008
While the Donnhoff wines are legendary for their ability to age, I find the wines to be even more enjoyable when young and filled with exuberant fruit and nervy acidity. It is hard to imagine how this wine would get better anyway, as even now it starts with a floral and mineral laden nose that seems to drift far out of the glass. The attack is fresh, fragrant and fruity, with intense peach, apricot and guava before a more restrained citrus element comes crashing in through the middle. The finish is long and lovely and has that fantastic mix of mouthwatering fruit and bracing acidity that can only be found in a high quality Riesling. September 7, 2010

esbrown reviewed Domaine Bott-Geyl Alsace 2008
The Bott Geyl Metiss takes its name because it is a melange of colors: Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois with their yellow skin, Gris with a greyish/ pink hue, and then the Black Pinot, and it is an appropriate name as it is a seemless blend of the best aspects of each. The apples and creamy texture of the blanc and Auxerrois shine through, while the spicy nature of the Gris adds touches of almond, clove and ginger. The Pinot Noir adds a touch of golden raspberry and a silky feel. Overall an excellent example of Alsatian wine that is hard to define but easy to love. Also certified organic and biodynamic if you are into that sort of thing. July 7, 2010

esbrown reviewed Merlin-Cherrier Sancerre 2008
Thierry Merlin is one of the true luniaries of Sancerre having produced distinctive and invigorating Sauvignon Blancs from the hamlet of Bue for four decades. He is widely considered one of the best winemakers in the region, and with good reason as this offering has all crisp citrus, chalky minerals and fresh quince that Sancerre is known for. But the Merlin-Cherrier also has a darker side as well- a seedy underbelly of smoke and richness that never seems to show its true nature but instead lurks just below the surface of the flavors. I wonder what it will do in a few years? Either way it is quite tasty now. July 7, 2010

esbrown reviewed Fattori Soave Superiore Danieli 2008
The Fattori Soave is like a breath of fresh mountain air. It is fresh, fruit forward with long peach, citrus and almond notes and a few floral elements mixed as well. But the real attraction here is the long, minerally finish that just seems to extend well beyond what this wine should be capable of. Fine acidity keeps it from feeling heavy or cloying, but does not interfere with the mouthfeel or the finish. Overall a well-made wine and a fine example of what this region can produce under quality and not factory conditions. May 27, 2010

esbrown reviewed Orin Swift Cellars "The Prisoner" Zinfandel Napa Valley 2008
Though the grape breakdown may sound like this is a "kitchen sink" type of wine, this is consistently and convincingly one of the the best values in Napa Valley from one year to the next. $36.99 a value wine? Yup, as the Prisoner offers a unique mix of hedonistic dark fruit and spice, silky tannins, ample length and complexity and a drinkability for a big wine that is unlike any other out there. But don't take my word for it- look at the amazing rise in popularity of this wine over just a few short years. It's crazy, but that is because this wine is crazy good, so I guess that makes sense. May 27, 2010

esbrown reviewed Melville Syrah Santa Rita Hills Verna's Vineyard 2008
Further proof that Syrah is the most underrated grape in California today, the Melville is a fruit-forward, dark, complex and spicy wine that is not without a vein of nervy acidity running through the middle. Plum, date, blueberry and blackberry fruit run dancing through the middle, while the front end is all floral and the back end all white pepper. I find wine lovers scratching their heads at this grape for this very reason- they expect jammy riches and a fat feel, but cool-climate Syrah can offer all of the juicy fruit and depth of broader wines, but it need not feel like a ton of bricks on the palate. I dare CA Pinot to say the same. May 5, 2010

esbrown reviewed Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc California 2009
Lip-smackingly delicious, tingly, crisp and clean, this wine brings out the best aspects of California Sauvignon Blanc without any of the hard attributes the grape can sometimes suggest. Well-made and fragrant, with notes of melon, meyer lemon, star fruit and green apple on the palate. Good wine and at this price better than the competition. May 1, 2010

esbrown reviewed German Gilabert Brut Cava NV
Sourced from organically farmed grapes, this is a delightful little bubbler for the spring, summer and celebrations. Crisp green apples, citrus and almond notes run through the middle while the finish is crisp and refreshing. The mousse is pronounced and lengthy and the bubbles have a fine texture. Too often bubbly is overlooked as a food wine, and it pairs well with seafood, spicy items, veggies and my personal favorite- fried foods. April 8, 2010

esbrown reviewed Bielsa Garnacha V.V. Campo de Borja 2008
Sourced from 50 year-old Grenache vines that re dry farmed and then fermented in stainless steel at cool temps, the Bielsa is about the best value in wine right now. Fresh and fruity, with notes of black fruit, spice and dry earth on the nose, while the palate offers juicy blackberries, black cherries, a slight floral note and a little tar to wrap it all together. The texture is soft and silky but not completely without tannins or acid. Overally pretty good and a real bargain at this price April 8, 2010

esbrown reviewed Bridesmaid Wines Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2008
This project hails from Napa stars Pam Starr and Drew Neiman and is produced from some of the Valley’s finest vineyards. While they will not mention specifically which vineyards, it is widely known throughout the Valley that the owners of such prestigious fruit would not want it known that their grapes make it into such an inexpensive wine. A blend of primarily Sauvignon Blanc with just a kiss of Semillon thrown in to add weight and complexity, the Bridesmaid White is as fragrant as the backyard in May. The nose offers complex notes of white flowers, soft spring grasses, tropical fruits and a touch of gravel. The palate is crisp and fruit-forward, with some of the tropical fruit notes familiar to the Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc, but also lighter notes that are more green and citrusy in nature. The wine is practically alive with acidic intensity which brings harmony and balance to the lush fruit. April 5, 2010

esbrown reviewed Domaine Bott-Geyl Cremant d'Alsace NV
From a certified organic and biodynamic winery, this is a delightfully dry example of Champagne Method quality at everyday pricing. The nose begins with notes of flowers, spices and citrus zest. The palate is full of apples, pears, cream and toasted spices along with hints of toffee undertones. The finish is crisp and clean and has plenty of lively sparkle. Jean-Christophe Bott is the 6th generation of his family to make wine from this estate that draws fruit from four grand crus and 3 lieu-dit vineyards. April 5, 2010

esbrown reviewed Vevi Rueda 2008
This is what Spainish wine was meant to be. The Verdejo in this mix is from very old vines which adds just a touch of richness to the fresh lemon, tangerine and creamy notes in the mid-palate. The nose is understated by very fresh, and with just enough acidity to get the mouth watering for the next sip. The finish is longer than what you would expect for $10, with hints of lemon zest, floral notes and almond skin. Overall just a very refresing and enjoyable wine. April 5, 2010